DIVING WHERE THE BUFFALO ROAMED:

Oklahoma 's Lake Murray

Story and photos by David Prichard and Lily Mak

When can distractions be an asset rather than a problem at a dive site? In the case of Oklahoma 's oldest and largest recreational state park, the dilemma faced by divers is trying to decide how to fit in all of the park's topside adventures between dives.

Where mastodons and buffalo once roamed, divers now flock to the spring-fed waters of Lake Murray State Park . An equal distance between Oklahoma City and Dallas , Lake Murray is one of the few dive sites in the region deep enough to allow diver training beyond 60 feet (18 m).

A Land of Change

Just southeast of the Arbuckle Mountains , the area making up Lake Murray State Park was once covered by a sea 300 million years ago. As the sea receded, the area became rolling hills with numerous springs and rivers that attracted hairy rhinoceroses, giant beavers and the mastodons that early Native Americans hunted.

Eventually, large herds of buffalo, deer and other game animals replaced the extinct animals as the main food source for the Wichita Indians, who were descendants of a prehistoric Caddoan culture known as the "Earth House People.”

The expansion of the United States with the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 included the land of Oklahoma , later designated as " Indian Territory .” Eastern Indian tribes were forcibly relocated to the new Oklahoma region during the infamous "Trail of Tears” march. Known as the "Five Civilized Tribes,” the Seminoles, Chickasaw, Choctaw, Creek and Cherokee settled into what is now the central and eastern region of Oklahoma , forcing the Wichita to move westward. The Chickasaw Nation included the area that would become Lake Murray .

Oklahoma 's name is derived from two Choctaw words: " okla ” meaning people, and "humma” meaning red for the translation of "red people.”

After the Civil War, westward expansion of the country motivated the government to move the Indian Territory to western Oklahoma and the Five Civilized Tribes were forced to sell their lands to settlers and relocate. Oklahoma later obtained statehood in 1907.

The Great Depression in the early 1930s devastated the economy and left many residents unemployed. A part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt's "New Deal” program was the formation of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). It provided work and vocational training for unemployed single young men through conserving and developing the country's natural resources. One CCC project was the creation of Lake Murray State Park in 1937.

The new park opened to the public in 1938 and encompassed 12,496 acres (4,998 hectares) of land and included a 5,728-acre (2,281-hectare) lake with 150 miles (240 km) of shoreline. Using "naturalistic architecture,” designers incorporated the natural stone and wood materials into many of the park structures, which are still in use today. These buildings helped place the park on the National Register of Historic Places.

Among the attractions that divers can find at the park between dives are designated hiking/mountain bike trails, ATV/dirt bike trails, equestrian riding trails and competition area, swimming beaches, swimming pool, tennis courts, 18-hole golf course, miniature golf course, Frisbee golf course, baseball and softball fields, horseshoe pits, volleyball/badminton court, airport, and a full-service marina offering a variety of boat and personal watercraft rentals.

One of the most notable structures at Lake Murray is the Tucker Tower Museum and Nature Center . Originally built as a retreat for then Governor "Alfalfa Bill” Murray during the park's construction, the stone lighthouse/castle structure now houses a nature center featuring mastodon relics and the fifth-largest meteorite ever found on earth, which was uncovered in the park.

Divers have many options when staying overnight around Lake Murray . The park offers 56 RV sites, 212 camping sites with electric and water, 185 tent campsites and unlimited primitive camping in surrounding woods. The Lake Murray Lodge offers 50 rooms and suites, plus 81 cottages for rent around the lake. In addition, the nearby City of Ardmore hosts a variety of hotels.

Beneath the Surface

The majority of the scuba diving activities are conducted on the southeast corner of the lake in an area called Marietta Landing. This section of the lake is designated as a "no wake” zone where boaters must proceed slowly.

Divers generally park in the western edge of the primitive camping area and walk down to a small cove. Using a shore entry, divers can proceed out to an unmarked platform at about 20 feet (6 m) in depth. From the bottom of the platform, ropes lead to several sunken attractions, such as a couple of boats, a car and a motorcycle.

A range of aquatic life can be encountered in the lake, including several varieties of bass, sunfish, crappie, drum, catfish, walleye and turtles. Spearfishing is only allowed on nongame fish with a proper fishing license.

Another dive site used for deep dive training is just west of Marietta Landing near the old Spillway tower. Best if approached by boat, but accessible by steep trails to the water's edge, the steel tower stands out of the water and has a line attached to its northwest corner that leads down to a platform at 70 feet (21 m).

At this depth in a lake, divers pass through one or two thermoclines and beyond the light of the sun. While summer surface temperatures range in the mid-80s Fahrenheit (28-32 Celsius), the temperature at the platform could be 20 degrees (6-7 C) cooler. A primary and a backup light are needed for each diver.

With no designated scuba diving areas sectioned off from boaters, all divers must display an appropriate dive flag while in the water. The state law recognizes dive flags no smaller than 20 inches by 24 inches (51 cm by 61 cm) with a 4-inch (10-cm) white stripe running diagonally in a field of red. Law enforcement officers can ticket boaters and personal watercraft drivers if they come within 150 feet (45 m) of a dive flag. They will also ticket divers for not displaying a proper dive flag.

There are no dive centers in Ardmore . The closest ones are about an hour north and south. There is an air fill station for scuba cylinders at Mom & Pop's Grocery near Marietta Landing off Mom & Pop's Road, but with limited hours of service, so call (580) 276-2696 to be sure the service is available.

More Topside Distractions

Besides the features of Lake Murray State Park , the area around the park features several other attractions. North of Ardmore on Interstate 35 is Turner Falls Park , the oldest in Oklahoma and features the state's tallest waterfall. Rare travertine deposits can be found in the park. Also in the park are geologic uplift "tombstone” formations, which are also found in the Grand Canyon and South Dakota 's Black Hills .

Nearby is the Arbuckle Wilderness drive-through exotic animal theme park. East of Turner Falls is the Chickasaw National Recreation Area, which offers more outdoor activities. South of Lake Murray is Lake Texoma State Park .

Native American artifacts, foundations of early settlement buildings and prehistoric fossils can be found under the lake's surface by divers exploring the submerged hills and valleys. While plenty of freshwater adventure awaits divers at Lake Murray , the competition for dive time comes from the many outdoor activities in and around the scenic park.

For More Information

Lake Murray State Park can be reached from Oklahoma City or Dallas by taking Exit 24 off Interstate 35 and traveling two miles east to the park. The park lodge, cabins, pavilions and group camping areas can be reserved by calling (800) 257-0322. Individual and RV campsites are offered on a "first come” basis and cannot be reserved. Inquiries about campsite availability can be made by calling the park office at (580) 223-4044. Other frequently called numbers include the golf course, (580) 223-6613, Tucker Tower Nature Center , (580) 223-2109, and marina, (580) 223-9339.