Diving the
Lighthouses of Maine

Story and photos by Jeana Sciarappa Schott, Esq.

Diving in Maine? Are you crazy? This is the typical response from most warm-water divers. But the truth is, diving in Maine is quite popular, especially in the coves by many of the lighthouses. Surprisingly, there is an abundance of underwater life that makes every dive a new experience. Additionally, the windy coastline and calm water conditions provide a perfect medium for easy access to many different sites.

Why lighthouse diving? Each lighthouse has a wealth of history attached to it and when the dive is finished makes for a wonderful place to have a picnic, take photos, hike, bike, play Frisbee, eat lobster and sightsee. Over the years I have developed a passion for diving the lighthouses of Maine. Each year I spend a good portion of my vacation seeking out new lighthouse dive sites. We will visit three of my favorite in this article.

While I enjoy a challenging dive every so often, there is nothing like a nice, easy dive, and that is normally what you can expect when diving southern Maine's lighthouse coves. Each one, located along the picturesque rocky shoreline, comes with a relatively shallow and very protected cove that is perfect for diving. Parking is a stone's throw from the entry point which, unless a good-sized storm is approaching, is like stepping into your bathtub. If you're looking for an unusual dive travel destination with a rich history, beautiful scenery, great food and a family atmosphere, southern Maine is the place to go.

Contrary to common belief, the water is not really all that cold, especially during the summer months. We most recently dove these sites in late June 1999, and the temperatures were in the mid-60s F (16 C) at the surface and the high 50s F (10 C) at depth.

For those hardy divers, the diving season begins in early to late April, but for most the season starts late in May and continues through September, when the water is generally the warmest. While many divers wear dry suits, a full 7mm wet suit kept me quite comfortable.

Depths in the coves are shallow, generally less than 40 feet/12 m at high tide. At low tide the depth may only reach 30 feet/9 m. While one can dive these sites during either high or low tide, I find it is best to dive midway between tides and when the tide is coming in. The average tidal flow is between 10 to 15 feet/3 to 5 m, so this practice avoids a long entry/exit walk in full diving gear. It also avoids returning to shore against the tidal current when one might be fatigued from the dive. More importantly, it makes for a more interesting dive. In each of these sites the practice is to dive along the rock walls of the cove. Much of the sea life will be out of the water if you dive during low tide.

It is recommended that you ask the local dive operator , and consult a tide chart , before planning your dive.

The underwater scenery in each of these areas is generally the same. That is, you'll likely see a multitude of lobster, crab and hermit crab just about everywhere you look. If you're lucky, you might see a horseshoe crab or two. There are also a few different seaweeds, which make for a lovely photo backdrop. Sea anemones are very large and beautifully colored. I've seen bright fluorescent orange and yellow ones living low in the rock walls at Portland Head Light. A variety of clams, mussels, snails and barnacles are plentiful. Fish in the area include flounder, skate, rock cod, sea bass and other common cold-water varieties. At times a seal or two play nearby.

Visibility is best when the water is cold, which limits the plankton bloom. This means during the summer months, when the water is at its warmest, the visibility can be at its worst. Even so, the visibility is usually about 10 to 20 feet/3 to 6 m, which is plenty in these shallow coves.

Some of the sites hold the remains of at least one shipwreck, as does the cove at Two Lights discussed below. You're certain to see lobster traps; in Maine they're everywhere. Divers, however, cannot take lobster in Maine. It is against the law and carries a hefty fine, confiscation of your dive equipment and possibly even your car, and perhaps a night in jail if caught. Nubble Light at Cape Neddick is so popular that it became overridden with divers, and laws were instituted to limit diving activities there. Be sure to check with the local dive stores in planning your dive at this site.

Portland Head Light

Portland Head Light is by far one of the most picturesque, historically significant and painted lighthouses in the United States. It is the oldest lighthouse in Maine.

Historically, in 1784 Portland, Maine, had become one of the busiest ports in America, and the merchants petitioned the Massachusetts government for a light to mark the entrance to Portland Harbor. Until 1786 Maine was part of the Massachusetts Bay colony. The petition was granted, and John Hancock, then-governor of the Bay colony, authorized construction. President George Washington appointed the first keeper, Captain Joseph Greenleaf. Since then a number of additions to the keeper's house and changes to the tower height have taken place.

In 1891 a new keeper's house was built. The station has changed little since then, except for the replacement of the Fresnel lens with a modern optic. The light was not automated until 1989, and in 1990 the keeper's quarters were renovated to create a museum, which is a must-see. A wonderful gift shop is also on site.

A rock near the lighthouse marks the spot where a British vessel, the Annie C. Maguire, ran ashore. The keepers helped all on board ashore to safety, but the ship was destroyed a few days later by a storm.

Diving Particulars: This lighthouse has a cove on either side of it. The cove that is best suited for diving is to the north (or the far left) as you look past the lighthouse and out to sea. There is an ample parking area, picnic table, a sandy beach, swimming and a swing set for any nondivers to enjoy while you are underwater. Diving the rocky walls to the right-hand side of the cove is the most interesting. Large, bushlike seaweeds and colorful sea anemones can often be seen at the far end of the cove on this side. The lighthouse is situated in Fort Williams Park, so there are a number of old bunkers to explore as well.

Getting There: From I-95, 295 or U.S. 1, take ME 77 to Cape Elizabeth. Turn east onto Shore Road and follow it to Fort Williams State Park. There are several clearly marked signs directing you to Portland Head Light.

Cape Elizabeth Light
(Two Lights)

In 1811 Captain John Smith named the area where Cape Elizabeth Light is located in honor of Princess Elizabeth, daughter of King James I and Queen Anne of Denmark. From 1827 the first pair of lighthouses was built. Thus, the nickname "Two Lights" was adopted by those living close by. Between 1855 and 1924 the west light was discontinued at least two times, until in 1924 the government mandated that all twin-light stations be reduced to single lights. The west light was then permanently discontinued. The 1878 Victorian keeper's house is now privately owned. The remaining east light tower is the most powerful on the New England coast at 4 million candlepower.

Diving Particulars: As you drive into Two Lights, the cove to dive is right in front of you. Access is an easy walk over a sandy entry point. The water is normally very calm. Underwater life is similar to that stated above. The remains of a shipwreck can be seen in this cove.

Just above the dive site is a family-style restaurant and Two Lights Gift Shop. The restaurant serves fresh Maine lobster and other delectable items from the sea.

Two Lights State Park is located nearby and offers hiking along the picturesque coast. Portland Head Light is only a few miles drive from this site. Both sites would be easy to dive in a single day.

Getting There: From Portland take Route 77 to Cape Elizabeth. Continue about 4 miles/6 km, then bear left onto Two Lights Road. Continue for about 1.5 miles/2 km, turning left at Two Lights Terrace; the light and keeper's house (both on private property) are on a hill at the end of the road. The dive site is also the cove at the end of the road.

Cape Neddick
(Nubble) Light

One of the most popular training sites in Maine , thanks to fairly calm conditions and shallow depths, Nubble Light in York Beach on Cape Neddick gets its name for the lighthouse perched on a close-to-the-mainland island. First illuminated in 1879, the Nubble Light lighthouse is now a local landmark. A protected cove calms water conditions at the dive site and entry is from a rocky shoreline. The dive itself is in and about the rock walls of the cove, and average depths of 20-40 feet (6-12 m) make it a good spot for new divers. Arrive early, as Nubble Light can get crowded. Diving is not allowed on Sundays.

Depths to: 50 feet (15 m)

Visibility: 10-20 feet (3-6 m)

Water temperature: Mid-60s Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) at the surface and the high 50s F (14 C) at depth.

Aquatic life: Flounder, skate, rock cod, sea bass, squid, wolf eels, and some seals have been spotted. You'll also see lobster, crabs, hermit crabs, sea anemones, clams, mussels, snails, and
barnacles.

Fees: None

On-site amenities: The Sohier Park Welcome Center is a good source of information on site, and nearby are ample lodging and dining options.

More info: Visit the town of York 's Web site at www.yorkmaine.org/ or http://parksandrec.yorkmaine.org/nubblehome.html or call the York Parks and Recreation office at (207) 363-1040.

Open: Every day but Sunday from mid-May to October.