San Carlos, Mexico

Arizona's Beachfront

By Linda Lee Walden

Technically, the village of San Carlos is not part of Arizona, not even the United States. It's 260 miles/419 km south of the Arizona border in the Mexican state of Sonora. But given the number of license plates from Arizona, New Mexico and contiguous states, it might be mistaken for a little-known American beach resort. In the winter snowbirds flock to its condos and RV parks to savor the mild climate. Families arrive during summer and holiday periods. Any time of year you're likely to encounter scuba divers engaged in training or just enjoying the diversity of the area's relatively benign coastal waters.

The People and the Place

Tucked between dramatically sculpted peaks on the eastern shore of the Gulf of California (also called the Sea of Cortez), San Carlos is surrounded by the great Sonoran desert of northwestern Mexico and the Southwest United States. It remained an unnoticed and hard-to-reach fishing village until the 1970s, when Mexico began to develop its reputation as an inexpensive, laid-back vacation destination. This prompted the improvement of Mexico Route 15 from Nogales, Arizona, southward, encouraging an influx of travelers from north of the border.

San Carlos is an appealing destination for Americans and Canadians wanting to escape cold weather or the stress of everyday life. An easy six-hour drive from Tucson, it is the most accessible beach resort from the population centers of several Southwest states. Visitors from farther away can fly into the Guaymas airport only 14 miles/22 km south along the coast.

In contrast to nearby Guaymas (pronounced WHY-mas), a bustling seaport and commercial center for the west coast of mainland Mexico, the slower-paced resort atmosphere of San Carlos draws well-to-do Mexicans, as well as foreign vacationers. Tourism is welcomed, having replaced fishing as the mainstay of local incomes. Most store and restaurant personnel speak enough English to facilitate communication, but not so much that you forget you're in another country. Signs and menus are generally bilingual.

The streets are safe , and so is the food. The crime rate is said to be the lowest in Mexico, aided by a police checkpoint along the only road in and out. Visitors can eat at any of the 23 restaurants in San Carlos without fear of the stomach distress appropriately known as "tourista." Although local water is good enough for washing produce and brushing teeth, tradition dictates bottled water for drinking.

Moderate development of condo and hotel properties has preserved the Mexican flavor of San Carlos village, while blending with and highlighting the natural beauty of the desert landscape. But the Gulf of California is the main attraction for most visitors. At places along San Carlos' 6-mile/10-km stretch of coast, eroded peaks meet the sea, forming circular bays lined by sea-smoothed stones and sea caves, which enlarge and shrink with the tides. Elsewhere, beaches of tawny sand outline miles of straight, flat shoreline.

Climatic Diversity

San Carlos lies at 28 degrees north latitude, about the same as Tampa, Florida. Its climatic changes are more exaggerated, however, due to the influence of the desert to the east and the changeable waters of the Gulf to the west. Rain is rare here, just a few inches annually.

Most of the year, air temperatures are comfortable. In winter they hover in the 70s F/low 20s C during the day, but occasionally drop below 50 F (10 C) at night. Spring and fall they average 10  to 15 F (6-8 C) higher. Summers are another story. The prevailing winds shift, bringing desert heat in July and August. Highs are generally in the 90s F (30s C), with periods above 100 F (38 C) not uncommon.

The waters of the Gulf also exhibit marked seasonal changes. Although sheltered from open-ocean turbulence by the 900-mile/1,450-km Baja peninsula, the cold waters of the Pacific encroach all the way to the northern end of the Gulf in winter. Average surface temperature for January is 63 F (17 C), and mid-50s F (low teens C) at diving depth. By late May divers can expect Caribbeanlike temperatures that last through October. Midsummer water temperatures may peak at an incredible 90 F (32 C)!

This extreme range of water temperature creates a uniquely diverse underwater ecosystem. Over 800 species of fish and 400 species of shelled invertebrates inhabit San Carlos waters for at least part of the year. For divers, there is something different to experience at every season. Gray whales winter off the coast, and schooling hammerheads pass through in November and December. Throughout the winter, shallow coves resemble the California coast as various species of sargassum (red seaweed) grow 6 feet/2 m high, dying off as the water temperature rises in the spring.

In contrast, summer brings pelagic dorado, skipjack and tuna, as well as an increase in the numbers of tropical reef species, including sea horses over 8 inches/20 cm tall. Visibility is generally better in the summer, averaging 70 feet/21 m at offshore dive sites.

Dive Sites

Beyond its proximity to the States and the convenient yet still intriguingly foreign ambiance, San Carlos is visited by scuba enthusiasts , more than 25,000 of them annually , because it has some of everything. Scuba instructors from the Southwest states bring their classes for open-water training dives, because the diversity allows students to experience diving conditions ranging from cold-water California-style to warm-water Caribbean.

Just beneath the landmark Tetakawi peaks lie two small bays, favorites for conducting Open Water-level scuba classes. Lalo and Frenchies coves are easily accessed by vehicle. Their sandy beaches transition to gently sloping hardpan and sand bottom averaging less than 30 feet/9 m deep , perfect for student skill evaluations and refresher dives. These and other coves along the shoreline can also be accessed via dive kayak and boat, both of which are available through local dive centers. No matter which direction the wind blows on a given day, a sheltered bay with calm water and adequate visibility can almost always be found.

There is plenty to see during shore dives. The sargassum supports an entire mini-ecosystem. When it dies off, there are still piles of boulders and rubble encrusted with red and purple coralline algae that shelter Christmas tree worms, anemones, green moray eels and Pacific octopus. Sandy patches are dotted with various species of sea hares, stars and cucumbers.

Several scuba and watersports centers operate two-tank boat dive trips out of the San Carlos marina. In addition to shoreline coves, nearby dive sites include an offshore reef with a seamount reaching from 120 feet/37 m to within 35 feet/11 m of the surface. Divers can comfortably circumnavigate the pinnacle at least once during a 40-minute bottom time. Its walls are decorated with good-size black coral bushes, and purple and red sea fans. Cortez angels, grunts, goatfish and sergeant majors lead the parade of Gulf fishes that aggregate at the seamount.

The most popular San Carlos dive site is San Pedro Island. Commonly referred to as Seal Island, it is home to one of the largest sea lion colonies in the Gulf of California. The guaranteed up-close-and-personal encounters with the playful mammals are well worth the two-hour boat ride to the island, weather permitting. Dive boats typically anchor just offshore in 20 to 40 feet/6 to 12 m of water. Divers choose a comfortable depth and settle down to enjoy the spectacular show of underwater acrobatics. Late spring and summer are the best times to interact with the newly born pups. The island is surrounded by deep water, so pelagics as well as the full complement of reef fish are plentiful, and visibility can be well over 100 feet/30 m.

The state of Sonora recently sank a 350-foot/107-m ferry as an artificial reef. At a bottom depth of only 70 feet, it is purported to be the largest, shallowest wreck dive in the world. Located 16 miles/26 km northwest of San Carlos, the site is sometimes subject to current, but is especially well-suited for wreck-diving training.

Nondiving activities

San Carlos is a fast-growing vacation resort for those who desire warm weather combined with water activities. Local businesses highlight deep-sea fishing, whale watching, sailing, kayaking and sunset margarita cruises.

The surrounding countryside also offers inviting pastimes. Hiking and mountain biking can be enjoyed on your own or in organized groups. Tour a working pearl farm, and take an excursion to a canyon that hides a natural oasis in the desert. Visit the port town of Guaymas, where Spanish colonial heritage blends with modern Mexican culture. Or play golf, shop for curios, and sample the local seafood specialties , particularly the excellent Gulf shrimp dishes.

The easiest way to dive San Carlos is to join one of the many group trips sponsored by dive centers throughout Arizona and other Southwest states. Go for a weekend, and you'll want to stay for a week.

Important Information

Getting There: Six hours south of Tucson via Interstate 19/Mexico 15 or by air from Phoenix to Guaymas. A tourist visa as well as Mexican auto insurance can be obtained at the border.

Practicalities: U.S. cash and credit cards are accepted everywhere. San Carlos is in the Mountain time zone; daylight-saving time is not observed.

Medical: Mexican Red Cross provides ambulance service; local clinics and hospitals are on par with U.S. facilities. The nearest recompression chambers are in Phoenix and San Diego (by air ambulance), but due to the shallow diving depths, decompression accidents are rare.